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How to Buy a New Car- I might save you money (4 Viewers)

How do I know what is or isn't reasonable? 

I want a deal but I also don't want to be an unreasonable crazy man that they will just blow off. 
I used autotrader to see recent sales and asking prices from around the area and country.

 
what do y'all think of the Honda CRV.. looking at EX-L... have a quote of about 31K, price seems in line with the market

want to get one of the dealers to throw in:

-salt/weather mats

-door molding

-maybe those window guard things so you can crack it when its raining

figure this is more likely to get these in house modications than I can get the price lowered.

All told, if I got all of those it would be over $750 in listed value but probably cost them nothing

 
 OK guys. Onto the financing Im making a purchase today ....

 I have $5000 to put down, should I tell them to run my credit and give me their rates before letting them know that? 

 Does my $5000 down give them incentive to drop the out the door price a little bit more? 

 I'm hoping these are my last two questions, thank you all very very much. I can't stress that enough 

FYI, my two standing offers are:

 Automatic: $27,157 

manual $28,500

 
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Psychopav said:
I used autotrader to see recent sales and asking prices from around the area and country.
 From what I understand the best way to determine the price of the vehicle is using TrueCar. 

in my brief experience it seems to be really angry with the trucks I've been dealing with.

 
Lol, I just spent 4 days negotiating a pickup truck and then looked at cars I can buy for the same price....

Jesus Christ.

Unfortunatly I'm not sure it's a good look when I show up to job estimates..... or is it?!? :devil:

How do I not buy that car?!?!?
I’ve bought two cars at Carmax (mini-van and SUV). Had one issue with mini-van on alignment issue that killed a tire but overall very happy. I got a used Lexus SUV a year ago and love it. It was so much cheaper than anywhere else. Lexus Certified were thousands more and a buddy of mine knows guys at the dealer through his company that leases vehicles (he buys a lot) and he told me how much of a discount he could get and it was nothing close to the gap. Even the dealers prices were way more. That said I scoured the pictures. I found one with a perfect interior and their prices are about the same regardless of actual condition so if you really look you can find a gem.

Not all of their cars are perfect or amazing buys but if you find a great one it’s typically a great buy there.

 
Thanks everyone. I'm the proud owner of a new truck and I couldn't have done it w/o several of you. 

Everything went smooth until the salesman broke my heated seat button within 5 seconds of getting into my truck to show me all the features. :hot:

It still works but the button is just recessed. It's obviously under warranty but the dealership is 45 minutes from my house. I guess I'll just wait till I need an oil change which is free for the first 3 years. 

 
Does this work for leases? Well I'm trying it. Emailed several dealers asking for best quotes on the 2018 Honda Accord EX. Interested in $0 money down, 36 month lease.

 
Does this work for leases? Well I'm trying it. Emailed several dealers asking for best quotes on the 2018 Honda Accord EX. Interested in $0 money down, 36 month lease.
Yes, and it's been said a bunch of times (no worries, obviously easy to miss) but it should probably be pinned to the OP at this point...

You are negotiating the price of the car first. Whether you are paying cash, financing, leasing, have a trade in, it doesn't matter. Agree on a price, then discuss how you will pay. Even throwing in your lease intentions right away just gives them the chance to #### with you by burying costs into the total package or adding required fees on at the end. On your $0 down, does that mean you want to roll all the taxes/fees into what will ultimately be your lease amount? Just another way to muddy the waters and make it difficult to compare apples to apples. 

 
Yes, and it's been said a bunch of times (no worries, obviously easy to miss) but it should probably be pinned to the OP at this point...

You are negotiating the price of the car first. Whether you are paying cash, financing, leasing, have a trade in, it doesn't matter. Agree on a price, then discuss how you will pay. Even throwing in your lease intentions right away just gives them the chance to #### with you by burying costs into the total package or adding required fees on at the end. On your $0 down, does that mean you want to roll all the taxes/fees into what will ultimately be your lease amount? Just another way to muddy the waters and make it difficult to compare apples to apples. 
But bottom line isnt the lease payment all I am concerned with? Even if they throw in hidden fees, Im going with the lowest one possible of the 5 quotes. I don't understand how negotiating price first changes things since they are competing with each other. For example, lets says I get 5 quotes:

$340, $320, $300, $350, $299. At that point I would negotiate with the $300 & $299 dealers and have them provide best and final offers. Yes I get that there may hidden fees baked into that price why does it matter to me?

 
But bottom line isnt the lease payment all I am concerned with? Even if they throw in hidden fees, Im going with the lowest one possible of the 5 quotes. I don't understand how negotiating price first changes things since they are competing with each other. For example, lets says I get 5 quotes:

$340, $320, $300, $350, $299. At that point I would negotiate with the $300 & $299 dealers and have them provide best and final offers. Yes I get that there may hidden fees baked into that price why does it matter to me?
If you are 100% set on this exact car and have no interest in others, and you are 100% certain you will lease another car at the end of this lease and you won't consider buying this one at the end, then sure, only the final payment amount matters assuming everyone is giving you their quotes apples-to-apples with taxes and fees and mileage allowance

 
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If you are 100% set on this exact car and have no interest in others, and you are 100% certain you will lease another car at the end of this lease and you won't consider buying this one at the end, then sure, only the final payment amount matters assuming everyone is giving you their quotes apples-to-apples with taxes and fees and mileage allowance
OK thanks. Makes sense. Yeah I'm not typically a leaser but I am going to lease this car and not buy it at the end.

 
Have done this method in the past with Jeep Cherokee.

Just started the process with a Mazda CX-5 which is what I really want, not finding as much wiggle room.

As I’m looking I’ve come across 2017 Nissan rogues are about 7k under msrp and 1k or so cheaper than car gurus “great deal” and they’re offering 0% financing. Is this a no brained? Anyone have any experiences with Nissan/rogues?

 
So I just used the fighting chance system to purchase a Toyota 4Runner.  Was beyond happy with the results and everything went quickly without a hitch.  Most importantly I got the 4runner for $2,700 under the invoice price.  System works great.  Will definitely use again when I need a new car. 

Would highly recommend if even for not having to ever walk into a dealership first and deal with that entire process which I loathe.  Few phone calls, few emails and then agree on the final price and go pick it up. 

Thanks @AcerFC!  Super glad I found this thread a couple years back!

 
So I just used the fighting chance system to purchase a Toyota 4Runner.  Was beyond happy with the results and everything went quickly without a hitch.  Most importantly I got the 4runner for $2,700 under the invoice price.  System works great.  Will definitely use again when I need a new car. 

Would highly recommend if even for not having to ever walk into a dealership first and deal with that entire process which I loathe.  Few phone calls, few emails and then agree on the final price and go pick it up. 

Thanks @AcerFC!  Super glad I found this thread a couple years back!
Which model?  I may be looking at them next week.

 
Also x2 on fighting chance.  I bought one for a Sequioa 2 years ago and had awesome info for me to negotiate if I went down that route.

 
So I just used the fighting chance system to purchase a Toyota 4Runner.  Was beyond happy with the results and everything went quickly without a hitch.  Most importantly I got the 4runner for $2,700 under the invoice price.  
We have been looking at these. If you don’t mind, what did you get and end up paying?

edit: SR5 premium

 
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Just an update on this...and I had a long conversation with James Bragg, the Fighting Chance guy.  Don't do everything by email, you need to start by calling dealerships.  I didn't do it correctly as he let me know.  Luckily I got one of the dealers to bite on email, but most did not

 
We have been looking at these. If you don’t mind, what did you get and end up paying?

edit: SR5 premium
so everything was negotiated as an "out the door price" in other words, the cost after tax, title, license, etc.  Everything.  I paid $36,600 out the door.  I think the price of the car itself before everything else was $33,700.

 
Just an update on this...and I had a long conversation with James Bragg, the Fighting Chance guy.  Don't do everything by email, you need to start by calling dealerships.  I didn't do it correctly as he let me know.  Luckily I got one of the dealers to bite on email, but most did not
Yeah, I think the in person phone call on the front end helped.  Only 5 minutes but showed you were a real person and serious about buying a car.  I was a bit anxious about the experience of calling all these random people, but it honestly went smoothly after the first one.  After the initial phone call nearly all of them replied via email and it was smooth from there. 

 
Yeah, I think the in person phone call on the front end helped.  Only 5 minutes but showed you were a real person and serious about buying a car.  I was a bit anxious about the experience of calling all these random people, but it honestly went smoothly after the first one.  After the initial phone call nearly all of them replied via email and it was smooth from there. 
So the way I have done this for two cars now is get into dealers to test drive vehicles, to help me decide which care I wanted. I had a few in my class and price range, and when I went for  a test drive I just asked for a card and told them that when I decided I'd be in touch.  These are the people I e-mailed (along with the internet managers from autotrader).  Worked well for me a couple of times now.

 
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so everything was negotiated as an "out the door price" in other words, the cost after tax, title, license, etc.  Everything.  I paid $36,600 out the door.  I think the price of the car itself before everything else was $33,700.
Was yours a ‘18? We just bought a ‘19 SR5 premium. Had roof rack, running boards, leather and all that jazz for $38.5 OTD. Mrs is extremely happy so I am too. 

 
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Was yours a ‘18? We just bought a ‘19 SR5 premium. Had roof rack, running boards, leather and all that jazz for $38.5 OTD. Mrs is extremely happy so I am too. 
Yes, I bought an '18.  Brand new, 28 miles on it.  The '19 would have been $2k more so I went with the '18.  Love it so far. 

 
  Paid the $50- and received the somewhat confusing/poorly written instructions.  At first I was uncomfortable calling the dealerships, but it became much easier after the 3rd or 4th call.   I called 10 dealers the day after Christmas and only one declined to "play the game" because they didn't have the car we wanted (2019 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0 premium 6 speed) in stock.  All were prompt and courteous.  Most quotes were in the  $22,200-$22,600 (options varied).  The last sales manager I called was most interested in selling us a car.   He quoted me a price of $21,179.35.  We were happy with that price/color and decided to accept his offer.  As a courtesy the next day I called all the dealers that had given me quotes and let them know we'd purchased the car elsewhere, and what we paid.  They were all pleasant and thanked me for calling.  Two said that they would've beat that price, but we'd already put a deposit on the initial low bid.  

   If it wasn't for my wife and daughter being picky about the color I'm sure we could've bought the car for at least $300- less.  Great way to buy a car, and it was definitely easier not having to trade anything in.   

Two Thumbs up!

 
  Paid the $50- and received the somewhat confusing/poorly written instructions.  At first I was uncomfortable calling the dealerships, but it became much easier after the 3rd or 4th call.   I called 10 dealers the day after Christmas and only one declined to "play the game" because they didn't have the car we wanted (2019 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0 premium 6 speed) in stock.  All were prompt and courteous.  Most quotes were in the  $22,200-$22,600 (options varied).  The last sales manager I called was most interested in selling us a car.   He quoted me a price of $21,179.35.  We were happy with that price/color and decided to accept his offer.  As a courtesy the next day I called all the dealers that had given me quotes and let them know we'd purchased the car elsewhere, and what we paid.  They were all pleasant and thanked me for calling.  Two said that they would've beat that price, but we'd already put a deposit on the initial low bid.  

   If it wasn't for my wife and daughter being picky about the color I'm sure we could've bought the car for at least $300- less.  Great way to buy a car, and it was definitely easier not having to trade anything in.   

Two Thumbs up!
I ended up buying my Subaru a few months ago from Quirk Subaru in Braintree.  Where you end up?  Quirk beat everyone by a lot 

 
Yes, I bought an '18.  Brand new, 28 miles on it.  The '19 would have been $2k more so I went with the '18.  Love it so far. 
Yep, doing some internetting, apparently these people are kinda cultish (Jeepish) when it comes to mods. We might lift it a bit and get new wheels. We will see. Very cool little truck. 

 
Just bought the fightingchance thing for the Subaru Ascent my wife wants.

I've never bought a car from a dealership that wasn't owned by a relative before.. this is really new territory for me.

 
I have a couple months still but want to buy sometime in June (oldest son gets his license, he gets my 08 Highlander, I get something nicer) 

Probably going used. Has anyone bought with offleaseonly.com? Good prices, not sure I like buying without testing first. 

Most likely going Camry XSE, 18 is preferred but could go earlier if the price is worth it. Could go Avalon, or maybe Accord. 

Dream would be 18 Camry hybrid XSE out the door for under $25k 

 
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Trade in question 

trade in has been in an accident, and the insurance company has given me a check to fix.   Question, should I trade in the vehicle, and throw the check in on top of the trade, or get the car fixed and then trade it in. 

In the past, the dealer has dinged a vehicle thats been in a previous accident 

 
What do you say when you call these dealerships?

My wife wants a white touring model subaru.

I did an inventory search on the 12 dealerships within 200 miles of me...  9 of them had one... so I'll call those..   I'm waiting for my packet to arrive Monday... what have your calls sounded like in the past?

 
Just bought the fightingchance thing for the Subaru Ascent my wife wants.

I've never bought a car from a dealership that wasn't owned by a relative before.. this is really new territory for me.
Nice! I just bought an Ascent (Limited) at the end of March...really happy with it. We’re midway in the period of time where these things are going to drive themselves soon. With all the EyeSight sensors and variable cruise control we’re almost there.

Anyway, I did everything through email, TrueCar, quotes to multiple dealers asking for their best quote and worked from there. Kind of a hybrid-Fighting Chance.  I’d done the formal Fighting Chance method for our previous two cars and liked them a lot. Just felt like in the past 10 years since we’d bought a car the dealers had finally caught up on email/online buying. 10 years ago, I’d still get a lot of “come on into the dealership and we’ll talk” but not anymore. There’s a lot of better comparison tools out there now (Edmunds fair price etc)too so I felt comfortable with what we ended up with. With the Fighting Chance stuff though you’ll know exactly what kind of profit they’re taking so that’s good. I did find that the Ascent was pretty hot so it’ll come down to what dealers need what numbers to hit at end of month when you’re negotiating. There’s always that unknown.

 
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Wow i just got my fighting chance packet.  This seems like a load of work to save.. What.. a grand?

 
I don't see the need for that package. As I stated a few years back in this very thread:

Find the vehicle you want

Do NOT discuss trade in until AFTER you have agreed to the out the door price of the new vehicle. This will give you leverage.

Email several dealerships in the area and ask them for their best out the door price

Go to the dealer who gives you the best price and be sure to let them know you have quoted it around.

Test drive

Agree to price

At this time, you can bring up the trade in should you have one. You have all the leverage since the new car has already been agreed upon.

The trade in comes in at $5,000 and you wanted $6,000. Simply say "I was really hoping to get $6,000 out of it." Many times the manager will approve it netting you that extra $1,000. Salesperson doesn't want to lose the sale over $1,000.

You have to be willing to walk to play this game. But you'll be amazed what they will do to avoid having you walk out the door. You've already notified them you have several quotes and have done your homework. Therefore, they know the odds of you coming back are slim to none.

 
Looking for a 2016 or 17 Sienna with AWD in blue.  That’s a hardish combo to find.  Do I find the car and go to the dealer or is there somewhere to list the specs I want and the dealers will find me?

 
I have read a few of the posts on this thread...  some interesting tactics.  I believe I could improve my car buying practices with this new knowledge. 

One key point I see here is that "you have to be willing to walk" away from the deal.  If it is not what you are willing to take, walk away.  It reminds me of an expression I tell my kids (now young adults)....  Nobody can take advantage of you without your permission....  either my acceptance or not challenging what they are doing.  Now, they are making a living by selling your something you may or may not want or need.  Defend yourself and your $. 

Many years ago (1988), I was shopping for a motorcycle.  I heard Dealerships had to pay "Inventory Tax" May 1 so I started April 12.  Found the bike I wanted (Shadow 750 something like List $3875).  They had 3 in stock like I wanted.  I made a low-ball offer $2875 out the door total (a full $1000 off list --> 25% off ).  They rejected, offered $3400.  I walked.  2 days later, they called $3100.  I rejected.  April 20 they called again. $2950.  I rejected.  April 28, I went in to the shop, saw it was still there and we agreed on the price of $2675 out the door total cost.  While there was no "rebate" for them, it saved them from inventory taxes and improved their sales #'s. 

 
I am interested in buying a 2019 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Premium.  I ordered this and hope it will help me out...

 
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Have done this method in the past with Jeep Cherokee.

Just started the process with a Mazda CX-5 which is what I really want, not finding as much wiggle room.

As I’m looking I’ve come across 2017 Nissan rogues are about 7k under msrp and 1k or so cheaper than car gurus “great deal” and they’re offering 0% financing. Is this a no brained? Anyone have any experiences with Nissan/rogues?
I am looking at a new Nissan Rogue 2019 SL right now and they are quoting $8k below MSRP with rebates right now.  How do I find out what the invoice is for this car?

 
I don't see the need for that package. As I stated a few years back in this very thread:

Find the vehicle you want

Do NOT discuss trade in until AFTER you have agreed to the out the door price of the new vehicle. This will give you leverage.

Email several dealerships in the area and ask them for their best out the door price

Go to the dealer who gives you the best price and be sure to let them know you have quoted it around.

Test drive

Agree to price

At this time, you can bring up the trade in should you have one. You have all the leverage since the new car has already been agreed upon.

The trade in comes in at $5,000 and you wanted $6,000. Simply say "I was really hoping to get $6,000 out of it." Many times the manager will approve it netting you that extra $1,000. Salesperson doesn't want to lose the sale over $1,000.

You have to be willing to walk to play this game. But you'll be amazed what they will do to avoid having you walk out the door. You've already notified them you have several quotes and have done your homework. Therefore, they know the odds of you coming back are slim to none.
I emailed several Honda dealerships in my area asking for the best out the door price, explaining I know the cars well and will simply come buy from whoever has the best offer, no test drive no nothin.

All replied, none will come close to even giving me a quote.

 
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Wish dealerships would get rid of the so called managers behind the glass wall at dealerships.  Just another layer to the cost of your vehicle to pad those guys pockets.  The more you pay the more these guys make.  Poor salesmen get the short end of the stick.

 
So is this a good time to buy a new car or bad time?  Prices gonna shift up or down?

I got a quote for a new 2020 Honda Civic out the door (includes the 7% sales tax in ohio) for $20,750.

The guy has also emailed me 3 times in the last 24 hours to ask when I can come in.

 
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So is this a good time to buy a new car or bad time?  Prices gonna shift up or down?

I got a quote for a new 2020 Honda Civic out the door (7% tax in ohio) for $20,750.

The guy has also emailed me 3 times in the last 24 hours to ask when I can come in.
I would think a good time. Maybe wait til next month or May but the dealerships are gonna be hurting.

 
So is this a good time to buy a new car or bad time?  Prices gonna shift up or down?

I got a quote for a new 2020 Honda Civic out the door (includes the 7% sales tax in ohio) for $20,750.

The guy has also emailed me 3 times in the last 24 hours to ask when I can come in.
Honda closing US factories for six days (may be more?).  Supply/Demand may hold, but I would think by end of month/quarter some deals may be coming.  They may also have 0% interest rates on some of the cars.

 

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