You got Chet money? How about you buy me an ‘87 Daytona Shelby?Im not a mechanic. At first I was thinking father son project. but I would have to youtube how to fix everything.
I prefer 68, but open.
$35000
Had a 72 240 20ish years ago. Moved to Mammoth and drove that car in a year where we got 30 feet of snow. Used chains maybe 3 times. Learned excellent car control that year. Lol. Just turn the wheel a bit a poke the gas, around the turn you go.66’ coup was my first car.
Check the floorboards and cowl. Both prime rust spots.
I’m working on a 72 Datsun but the mustang is next. I prefer resto-mods over original.
you would be surprised. ive joined a few facebook groups and you can buy a drivable one for like 15-20KWhoa... $35k for an old classic and neither you nor your son have repair skills? What kind of shape is the $35k car in now? It doesn't sound like you have a particular one in mind now. But when you do, Will it need another $35k of repairs? My son is an ASE-certified master technician, but I don't think I would undertake this project even with his help.
Im recently empty nester. I would keep it unless you hate itI have a 69 Coupe sitting in my garage. My family has owned it since 1974. In high school in the 80's, I poured every dollar I earned into that car. However, it has pretty much sat for the past 20-25 years and isn't running. I really should sell it, but this was my first car and it isn't costing me anything to keep it. My wife insists we will get it back to running shape if we come into some extra money, but is seems there is always something when you have kids. This isn't exactly a desirable car being a coupe and all, as most want a fastback, but the built 351w it has in it would blow the doors off most things on the road back then. In my teens, I remember only losing two races--a 396 SS Chevelle, which is a beast of a car and then one time I lined up against this old 50's truck with a wood bed and these huge drag slicks. I don't know what it had in it, but it left me like I wasn't there. 30+ years later, I still remember the embarrassment of that night.
im the opposite, had a CJ7, 06 2 door rubicon, and now a 21 willys. too funnyI had a 66 and never really drove it. Finally sold it and bought a Jeep.
I think my son is interested. hes 24. maybe something that just needs some help. I cant weld a new floor pan in or anythingMy dad and I restored a 1966 Mustang Fastback when I was 16. This was pre internet (for the masses anyway). We live in Michigan but found the car for sale at a car show in Tennessee. The great thing is that there are many resources to buy Mustang parts. My dad is super talented when it comes to auto repair and I’m not so I won’t be much help to you. However what I wanted to say is…..the experience of restoring the car with my dad is priceless and the Mustang will be stay in our family for generations. I wish you luck!
Kinda where I was going to go. For sub 35k I’d be looking at early Shelby GT500s, 2007-2009 with low mileage.Hmmm, well, I'm not an expert, I've never owned a classic car but I am a car guy. I love all cars and I'm sort of an addict you could say. So, my brother-in-law has several old Mustangs in various conditions. He's got two 66's, a 68 Mercury Cougar, an 86 GT and I think a 66 parts only Mustang. The thing with old Mustangs (imho) is that I find them terribly uncomfortable (I'm 6'4"), the steering wheel is unusually large and it hits my thighs, it's kinda vague and overall I guess I've been left disappointed each time I get into one. I have to admit I love the hell out of the way old 60's cars look but factory original Mustangs don't ride all that well, they're pretty wallowy, steering is vague and there's always something wrong. And if a complete hack got a hold of it at some point, it's going to be a mess to deal with, especially half assed body work, unsafe repairs, sketchy wiring, etc. Even on a good, well sorted one, I mean, there always seems to be a part missing/broken that you need to track down. It's a labor of love and if you're not mechanically inclined, you should find someone who is first because these cars are a half a century old now and things are going to break if not already broken. The other thing is that you MUST have someone check it out for rust. Floorboards are extremely common as are the cowls because water sits on the cowls and rusts those cowls out then the holes caused by that leaks into the floorboards. Quarters get rusty and repaired with bondo, brake lines rust, fuel lines rust, gas tanks rust, if the carb gets out of adjustment (too rich or too lean) it's not a big deal if you've repaired or rebuilt a carb before but it's kind of a pain the first time you tackle it and if you can't rebuild it yourself then you'll need to find someone who can. The thing is, I don't think carbs have been standard in cars since the mid 80's so, again, while it's not a big deal, it is if you can't find someone who knows what they're doing. The other thing is, is that you're going to be putting yourself and your child in a 50+ year old vehicle that really isn't going to hold up well in an accident, I would take that into consideration. A car like that really won't hold up well against a modern truck or suv especially if the frame has been put back together poorly or is super sketchy underneath a coat of fresh black paint. However, if you're hell bent on it, a pre-purchase inspection by an expert is the way to go here. You can't go by looks alone. And I agree 100% with DeadHead, BAT is an excellent site to go by but I would still recommend a PPI by a independent mechanic that knows Mustangs. Whatever that cost is (for the PPI) it will be worth it, even for peace of mind.
However, if it were me, for $35k, I'd buy a newer Mustang GT w/a manual transmission like this one for example. This is just the first one that popped up under $35k but it's a V8 w/460 HP, clean title, it's newer, safer, more comfortable, more reliable and imho a LOT more enjoyable. I would STILL pay for an independent PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) to be safe. And, honestly, you don't have to drive it like an idiot to enjoy it. What people don't understand is that a newer Mustang GT handles EXTREMELY well. I've driven several and I can tell you they're a LOT of fun on a winding back road, it's not just a one trick pony (fast in a straight line.) Again, just my 2 cents.
Hmmm, well, I'm not an expert, I've never owned a classic car but I am a car guy. I love all cars and I'm sort of an addict you could say. So, my brother-in-law has several old Mustangs in various conditions. He's got two 66's, a 68 Mercury Cougar, an 86 GT and I think a 66 parts only Mustang. The thing with old Mustangs (imho) is that I find them terribly uncomfortable (I'm 6'4"), the steering wheel is unusually large and it hits my thighs, it's kinda vague and overall I guess I've been left disappointed each time I get into one. I have to admit I love the hell out of the way old 60's cars look but factory original Mustangs don't ride all that well, they're pretty wallowy, steering is vague and there's always something wrong. And if a complete hack got a hold of it at some point, it's going to be a mess to deal with, especially half assed body work, unsafe repairs, sketchy wiring, etc. Even on a good, well sorted one, I mean, there always seems to be a part missing/broken that you need to track down. It's a labor of love and if you're not mechanically inclined, you should find someone who is first because these cars are a half a century old now and things are going to break if not already broken. The other thing is that you MUST have someone check it out for rust. Floorboards are extremely common as are the cowls because water sits on the cowls and rusts those cowls out then the holes caused by that leaks into the floorboards. Quarters get rusty and repaired with bondo, brake lines rust, fuel lines rust, gas tanks rust, if the carb gets out of adjustment (too rich or too lean) it's not a big deal if you've repaired or rebuilt a carb before but it's kind of a pain the first time you tackle it and if you can't rebuild it yourself then you'll need to find someone who can. The thing is, I don't think carbs have been standard in cars since the mid 80's so, again, while it's not a big deal, it is if you can't find someone who knows what they're doing. The other thing is, is that you're going to be putting yourself and your child in a 50+ year old vehicle that really isn't going to hold up well in an accident, I would take that into consideration. A car like that really won't hold up well against a modern truck or suv especially if the frame has been put back together poorly or is super sketchy underneath a coat of fresh black paint. However, if you're hell bent on it, a pre-purchase inspection by an expert is the way to go here. You can't go by looks alone. And I agree 100% with DeadHead, BAT is an excellent site to go by but I would still recommend a PPI by a independent mechanic that knows Mustangs. Whatever that cost is (for the PPI) it will be worth it, even for peace of mind.
However, if it were me, for $35k, I'd buy a newer Mustang GT w/a manual transmission like this one for example. This is just the first one that popped up under $35k but it's a V8 w/460 HP, clean title, it's newer, safer, more comfortable, more reliable and imho a LOT more enjoyable. I would STILL pay for an independent PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) to be safe. And, honestly, you don't have to drive it like an idiot to enjoy it. What people don't understand is that a newer Mustang GT handles EXTREMELY well. I've driven several and I can tell you they're a LOT of fun on a winding back road, it's not just a one trick pony (fast in a straight line.) Again, just my 2 cents.
Someone took my neighbor's green Landcruiser of around that year away on a trailer a month ago. I hope it doesn't come back.There is also a Bring a Trailer facebook group. It is separate from the auction site..just people listing old cars for sale. I recently bought a 77 Toyota Landcruiser from there.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHhey! I also too want to throw money down a hole after I've lit it on fire!
let's meet up!
WOW, thank you for the great post. im not hell bent. Just thinking out loud and starting to join facebook groups that buy and sell them. Thank youHmmm, well, I'm not an expert, I've never owned a classic car but I am a car guy. I love all cars and I'm sort of an addict you could say. So, my brother-in-law has several old Mustangs in various conditions. He's got two 66's, a 68 Mercury Cougar, an 86 GT and I think a 66 parts only Mustang. The thing with old Mustangs (imho) is that I find them terribly uncomfortable (I'm 6'4"), the steering wheel is unusually large and it hits my thighs, it's kinda vague and overall I guess I've been left disappointed each time I get into one. I have to admit I love the hell out of the way old 60's cars look but factory original Mustangs don't ride all that well, they're pretty wallowy, steering is vague and there's always something wrong. And if a complete hack got a hold of it at some point, it's going to be a mess to deal with, especially half assed body work, unsafe repairs, sketchy wiring, etc. Even on a good, well sorted one, I mean, there always seems to be a part missing/broken that you need to track down. It's a labor of love and if you're not mechanically inclined, you should find someone who is first because these cars are a half a century old now and things are going to break if not already broken. The other thing is that you MUST have someone check it out for rust. Floorboards are extremely common as are the cowls because water sits on the cowls and rusts those cowls out then the holes caused by that leaks into the floorboards. Quarters get rusty and repaired with bondo, brake lines rust, fuel lines rust, gas tanks rust, if the carb gets out of adjustment (too rich or too lean) it's not a big deal if you've repaired or rebuilt a carb before but it's kind of a pain the first time you tackle it and if you can't rebuild it yourself then you'll need to find someone who can. The thing is, I don't think carbs have been standard in cars since the mid 80's so, again, while it's not a big deal, it is if you can't find someone who knows what they're doing. The other thing is, is that you're going to be putting yourself and your child in a 50+ year old vehicle that really isn't going to hold up well in an accident, I would take that into consideration. A car like that really won't hold up well against a modern truck or suv especially if the frame has been put back together poorly or is super sketchy underneath a coat of fresh black paint. However, if you're hell bent on it, a pre-purchase inspection by an expert is the way to go here. You can't go by looks alone. And I agree 100% with DeadHead, BAT is an excellent site to go by but I would still recommend a PPI by a independent mechanic that knows Mustangs. Whatever that cost is (for the PPI) it will be worth it, even for peace of mind.
However, if it were me, for $35k, I'd buy a newer Mustang GT w/a manual transmission like this one for example. This is just the first one that popped up under $35k but it's a V8 w/460 HP, clean title, it's newer, safer, more comfortable, more reliable and imho a LOT more enjoyable. I would STILL pay for an independent PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) to be safe. And, honestly, you don't have to drive it like an idiot to enjoy it. What people don't understand is that a newer Mustang GT handles EXTREMELY well. I've driven several and I can tell you they're a LOT of fun on a winding back road, it's not just a one trick pony (fast in a straight line.) Again, just my 2 cents.
Nah, its for me.Hmmm, well, I'm not an expert, I've never owned a classic car but I am a car guy. I love all cars and I'm sort of an addict you could say. So, my brother-in-law has several old Mustangs in various conditions. He's got two 66's, a 68 Mercury Cougar, an 86 GT and I think a 66 parts only Mustang. The thing with old Mustangs (imho) is that I find them terribly uncomfortable (I'm 6'4"), the steering wheel is unusually large and it hits my thighs, it's kinda vague and overall I guess I've been left disappointed each time I get into one. I have to admit I love the hell out of the way old 60's cars look but factory original Mustangs don't ride all that well, they're pretty wallowy, steering is vague and there's always something wrong. And if a complete hack got a hold of it at some point, it's going to be a mess to deal with, especially half assed body work, unsafe repairs, sketchy wiring, etc. Even on a good, well sorted one, I mean, there always seems to be a part missing/broken that you need to track down. It's a labor of love and if you're not mechanically inclined, you should find someone who is first because these cars are a half a century old now and things are going to break if not already broken. The other thing is that you MUST have someone check it out for rust. Floorboards are extremely common as are the cowls because water sits on the cowls and rusts those cowls out then the holes caused by that leaks into the floorboards. Quarters get rusty and repaired with bondo, brake lines rust, fuel lines rust, gas tanks rust, if the carb gets out of adjustment (too rich or too lean) it's not a big deal if you've repaired or rebuilt a carb before but it's kind of a pain the first time you tackle it and if you can't rebuild it yourself then you'll need to find someone who can. The thing is, I don't think carbs have been standard in cars since the mid 80's so, again, while it's not a big deal, it is if you can't find someone who knows what they're doing. The other thing is, is that you're going to be putting yourself and your child in a 50+ year old vehicle that really isn't going to hold up well in an accident, I would take that into consideration. A car like that really won't hold up well against a modern truck or suv especially if the frame has been put back together poorly or is super sketchy underneath a coat of fresh black paint. However, if you're hell bent on it, a pre-purchase inspection by an expert is the way to go here. You can't go by looks alone. And I agree 100% with DeadHead, BAT is an excellent site to go by but I would still recommend a PPI by a independent mechanic that knows Mustangs. Whatever that cost is (for the PPI) it will be worth it, even for peace of mind.
However, if it were me, for $35k, I'd buy a newer Mustang GT w/a manual transmission like this one for example. This is just the first one that popped up under $35k but it's a V8 w/460 HP, clean title, it's newer, safer, more comfortable, more reliable and imho a LOT more enjoyable. I would STILL pay for an independent PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) to be safe. And, honestly, you don't have to drive it like an idiot to enjoy it. What people don't understand is that a newer Mustang GT handles EXTREMELY well. I've driven several and I can tell you they're a LOT of fun on a winding back road, it's not just a one trick pony (fast in a straight line.) Again, just my 2 cents.
Everything Sullie said is 100% spot on. I would still get an old one because I know my way around that car and I think all the mustangs made in the past 25 are are ugly.
I’ll add that If this is for you, good. If it’s for a young driver, don’t even think about it. The first time they punch the gas they’re going 180° the other way into an embankment or worse.
There are a lot of hidden fees at Barrett Jackson. I can’t remember if it’s the buyer or seller, or both who pay them, but I don’t think it’s a great place to buy an ordinary car.I need to regester at barrett jackson it looks like, but saw a screen shot of someone walking away with a sweet black one for 35k all redone.
again, not an immediate thing. just kicking tires literally
Good point. I think its 10% to the buyer.There are a lot of hidden fees at Barrett Jackson. I can’t remember if it’s the buyer or seller, or both who pay them, but I don’t think it’s a great place to buy an ordinary car.I need to regester at barrett jackson it looks like, but saw a screen shot of someone walking away with a sweet black one for 35k all redone.
again, not an immediate thing. just kicking tires literally
Sold. That looked like a fairly nice one for that price.Don’t know where OP is located, but there’s a 65 listed for sale for $10k near me in Georgia.
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Ah, Arizona. NM.
So TrueMerge with mid-life crisis thread, plz. TIA.
So TrueMerge with mid-life crisis thread, plz. TIA.
What’s up with those taillights?Bei Facebook anmelden
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Thunderbird taillights. Used on Shelbys in the late 60's.What’s up with those taillights?Bei Facebook anmelden
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This is exactly where I’m at. Had a built big block 66 Chevelle and loved it. But 50yr old cars definitely have some downsides. I desperately miss the V8 rumble but when I look at a new-ish corvette/mustang/Camaro etc it just feels like what everyone else is driving.I go through phases of wanting a muscle car again. Every time I want one I try to remember what it was like driving one in the summer on sticky vinyl seats with no air conditioning. Also, never feeling confident that the thing would start. Oof. That's hard to relate to since new cars with their fuel injection and electronic ignitions are reliable as it gets and they all pretty much have creature comforts like A/C and power everything. If you're in AZ, you'll definitely want one that has A/C or plan to add it.
Personally, I don't think I can ever bring myself to buy an old car at this point. Where I live, those things rusted out 5-10 years into life and I can only imagine how weak the frame is on one that's 50+ years old if it hasn't had a full resto. Maybe a car that's been a southwestern car its whole life would be solid. But I don't think you'd get that in your price range.
Good luck to you. Hope it works out.
Yep the joys of having points under the distributor cap thst always needed adjusting . As a 16 year old having to rely on my dad all the time to get my car running was terrible.I go through phases of wanting a muscle car again. Every time I want one I try to remember what it was like driving one in the summer on sticky vinyl seats with no air conditioning. Also, never feeling confident that the thing would start. Oof. That's hard to relate to since new cars with their fuel injection and electronic ignitions are reliable as it gets and they all pretty much have creature comforts like A/C and power everything. If you're in AZ, you'll definitely want one that has A/C or plan to add it.
Personally, I don't think I can ever bring myself to buy an old car at this point. Where I live, those things rusted out 5-10 years into life and I can only imagine how weak the frame is on one that's 50+ years old if it hasn't had a full resto. Maybe a car that's been a southwestern car its whole life would be solid. But I don't think you'd get that in your price range.
Good luck to you. Hope it works out.