I lived in near the beach in SoCal for a few years in middle school / high school and spent a few years being a kook. Have been on a kick of surf books recently for some reason.
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell - This writer is a total doosh but the book is good because of that. About the North Shore, locals, surfing, and the author being a jackass.
Kook - Great writer (Peter Heller) who learns how to surf when he's like 40 or something.
The Dogs of Winter - In the middle of this one. It's not really about surfing so much but it's pretty good.