parasaurolophus
Footballguy
He said he comes weekly. That was the monthly service charge.
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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
Anderson and Pella and the like will always be crazy expensive. They are quality, and they are looking for customers who have the bread and don’t care.
Contractors are bidding stuff at FU prices because they’re super busy due to a lack of skilled workers (to lower their production times,) and enough people are paying the FU prices that they don’t care.
I got 4 quotes for a vinyl fence, they all ranged from $18k-$35k. I can’t get the $18k guy to call me back.
Contractors are bidding stuff at FU prices because they’re super busy due to a lack of skilled workers (to lower their production times,) and enough people are paying the FU prices that they don’t care.
I got 4 quotes for a vinyl fence, they all ranged from $18k-$35k. I can’t get the $18k guy to call me back.
Osaurus
Footballguy
Dang. I had all my windows in the house replaced by Window World for $22k less then 3 years ago. They’re 175 mph impact resistant and I had triple sliders replaced as part of it. 10 windows and triple sliders in total.
Dezbelief
Footballguy
Joy, something is nesting in the attic crawl way, maybe a squirrel. Climbed up on the roof there's a hole about the size of my fist where the bottom of a gable meets another roof section. Guess I'll check friends and family tomorrow to see if anyone has a live trap. My wife is all freaked out 
There was a wasp nest up there so I carried up some spray and took care of that. It was after dark so I had a flashlight and a machete just in case I could get at whatever animal. Of course I get down, put up the ladder and then realize I left the machete up there.
There was a wasp nest up there so I carried up some spray and took care of that. It was after dark so I had a flashlight and a machete just in case I could get at whatever animal. Of course I get down, put up the ladder and then realize I left the machete up there.
belljr
Footballguy
Now you have machete wielding squirrels....... Sleep tight gbJoy, something is nesting in the attic crawl way, maybe a squirrel. Climbed up on the roof there's a hole about the size of my fist where the bottom of a gable meets another roof section. Guess I'll check friends and family tomorrow to see if anyone has a live trap. My wife is all freaked out
There was a wasp nest up there so I carried up some spray and took care of that. It was after dark so I had a flashlight and a machete just in case I could get at whatever animal. Of course I get down, put up the ladder and then realize I left the machete up there.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
I called the place that used to do our driveway sealcoating. The last time I had it done was spring of 2021 It cost me $500. Their quote this time was $925. That's almost double the cost for our ~2,800 sq. foot driveway. I decided to do it myself yesterday. Cost me ~$325 in materials (9 5-gallon buckets of seal, squeegee, paddle mixer for my drill, and some rubber boots). I started at 8:00 AM edging the grass back, blowing it clear, and power washing it. Quick trip to the store and then I started applying the seal coat at ~11:00. Took me ~4 hours or so from there. Not horribly hard, and I got better as I went on. It was just really hot. Upper 80's in NJ, no shade. That wore me out, and I was dead by the end, but I feel good that I saved ~$600.
My next project is I have to figure out how to put some sort of surface drain at the corner of my house. Water collects there and then undercuts my driveway and I'm going to end up with a crack at some point. I was going to try and tie a drain into the existing gutter there, but it's too shallow for me to fit any off-the-shelf surface drains there and still have any slope. Need to re-evaluate...
My next project is I have to figure out how to put some sort of surface drain at the corner of my house. Water collects there and then undercuts my driveway and I'm going to end up with a crack at some point. I was going to try and tie a drain into the existing gutter there, but it's too shallow for me to fit any off-the-shelf surface drains there and still have any slope. Need to re-evaluate...
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
What does this feel like? Mine all seem to go sideways
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
Ended up starting this myself. Decided on wood over vinyl. We like the appearance and durability of wood over the alleged maintenance free vinyl. Vinyl still needs to be power-washed or it stains. We also worry about the high winds and freezing temps in the winter and the flying baseballs and soccer balls from the neighbors kids in the summer. If vinyl gets damaged you off and have to replace the whole panel instead of just one board like you can with wood.
Ministry of Pain
Footballguy
Got a quote for new carpet throughout, 1600 sq ft home/condo, about $7,500
WOW!
Still thinking about it...
need to redo the kitchen and remove a microwave/Vent system and do away with any microwave and just go with a new exhaust/ventilation, $500? Plus whatever man hours are required.
WOW!
Still thinking about it...
need to redo the kitchen and remove a microwave/Vent system and do away with any microwave and just go with a new exhaust/ventilation, $500? Plus whatever man hours are required.
Senor Schmutzig
Footballguy
I power washed our back patio and furniture. It was getting sort of grungy.
I really like power washing. So therapeutic....
I really like power washing. So therapeutic....
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
It really is. Throw on some headphones and take a puff and I can do it for hours.
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
Started my fence. Happy so far with the results
Not happy with Lowe’s. Went there Saturday morning to pick up 500 pickets, paid for them, and then they couldn’t find them. Wasted half my Saturday.
ETA- I’m aware I need to do something about the drain/grading. I’m going to do a tiered retaining wall and run that downspout into a 6” pvc pipe. There’s going to be an outdoor shower on the other side of that fence.
imgur.com
Not happy with Lowe’s. Went there Saturday morning to pick up 500 pickets, paid for them, and then they couldn’t find them. Wasted half my Saturday.
ETA- I’m aware I need to do something about the drain/grading. I’m going to do a tiered retaining wall and run that downspout into a 6” pvc pipe. There’s going to be an outdoor shower on the other side of that fence.
SM22 Fence
Discover the magic of the internet at Imgur, a community powered entertainment destination. Lift your spirits with funny jokes, trending memes, entertaining gifs, inspiring stories, viral videos, and so much more from users like SteadyMobbin22.
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matttyl
Footballguy
How long till you can drive on it? That’s my biggest hangup for doing mine.
Sand
Footballguy
You in Toronto?Joy, something is nesting in the attic crawl way, maybe a squirrel. Climbed up on the roof there's a hole about the size of my fist where the bottom of a gable meets another roof section. Guess I'll check friends and family tomorrow to see if anyone has a live trap. My wife is all freaked out
There was a wasp nest up there so I carried up some spray and took care of that. It was after dark so I had a flashlight and a machete just in case I could get at whatever animal. Of course I get down, put up the ladder and then realize I left the machete up there.
Dezbelief
Footballguy
I wish, Texas. I have two snares setup, a live trap and several glue traps. I haven't heard anything up there since I booby trapped the area. I setup everything one morning and figure the squirrel was probably out chasing tail. When it came back and saw what I had done it found a new home. I need to get some wire screen to cover the hole.You in Toronto?Joy, something is nesting in the attic crawl way, maybe a squirrel. Climbed up on the roof there's a hole about the size of my fist where the bottom of a gable meets another roof section. Guess I'll check friends and family tomorrow to see if anyone has a live trap. My wife is all freaked out
There was a wasp nest up there so I carried up some spray and took care of that. It was after dark so I had a flashlight and a machete just in case I could get at whatever animal. Of course I get down, put up the ladder and then realize I left the machete up there.
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Fat Nick
Footballguy
So from what I gather, it WIDELY depends on conditions. I put it down in mid/high 80's temperature, lower humidity, and full sun. Basically, I worked it in 100 sq. foot increments or so. I'd pour out a 10' line, and spread that for about 10', then I'd repeat. Usually as I started a section, the one I did 2 prior looked dry. Now mind you it wasn't actually dry, but it looked dry. My product was curing/drying really really fast. So...in my case, I was fine to walk on it about 4 hours after I was done. I had the cars off it for 48 hours, and we got a big rain about 48 hours later. It looks none the worse for wear in my case - but I think I'm pretty optimal in terms of conditions. Relatively new driveway, sealed 2 years ago...smooth, not too much pitting, and on a hot dry day.
The surface does show some mild tire marks, but they're not in the surface, but more a slight tackiness pulling dirt off the tires, so I'm confident they'll settle and it'll look good.
Again, I'm not a die-hard seal-coat guy. I'm not convinced it'll really keep your driveway in better shape long term, but it's great cosmetically. If it weren't for the impact of our recent home renovations on the driveway (rust spots from dumpster, scrapes from dumpster, paint from the painters being careless, etc), I'd have waited a bit longer, but is a very gratifying job when done.
belljr
Footballguy
Why are you heating up your hot water.......
Dezbelief
Footballguy
To keep it hot.
belljr
Footballguy
Do you have a separate cold water heater? Ziiiing
Sullie
Footballguy
Well, I'll do my best to condense this but. . . who am I kidding? It's going to be long and windy, it's who I am at this point. I hired someone to paint my house this spring, he did a great job but my screened in patio looked pretty bad as the screens were worn, the wood trim (these screens are stapled around the perimeter and then framed with thin strips of wood.) The lattice (the thin strips of wood) were cracked/broken in places, the screen had popped out in places, the screen was also pretty sun faded and with the rest of the house freshly painted the screened in patio looked all that much more tired and need of attention.
I tore the old screens off, the wood trim and got down to the frame (the patio is framed with 4x4 posts.) I've been in this house for almost 20 years, I've replaced the screens once (15+) years ago but I've never touched the posts. I noticed sloppy caulking from the previous owner was worn out so I scrapped that out and replaced all of that. Next, I painted the posts, they needed some small repairs in places (a bit of wood putty) and I needed all new trim and new privacy screen. This was kind of a hassle because there's a TON of trim around each screen. I had to put two coats of paint on the trim and it took forever. I stapled the screens in place, carefully matching the direction of each staple for some reason and then I predrilled the trim so that all the holes lined up, why, I have no idea either. Lastly, I went back and painted the nail heads. I used roofing nails, they have big shiny heads and they stood out. I used these b/c I talked it over with my painter (he's also a handy man) and he suggested I use roofing nails for a number of reasons. Oh and I want to mention something before I forget. There are nine screen panels and trim around each panel. 15+ years ago, I did all of this over a long weekend. This time, I believe it took me 4 weekends to get the nine panels done. . . I'm like old and stuff or something now.
Next was the old screen door. I put this door in 20 years ago, I've never touched it since b/c it was a BEAR to find a nice wooden door, but it was even harder to find a place that would cut it down to the exact size I needed. The screen door I put in was stained a pecan color, but it had badly sun faded, the clear coat cracked and wore off and the stain was worn down to where it looked grey in most places plus the screen had torn in a couple of places.
This is the after on the screen door, and this is the installed screen door. Ooof. This is what I did to this door. I sanded down to bare wood, both sides with an RO sander except for the corners and the wooden grills (the wooden grills are part of the door, they are not removable) and those were fun to sand on both sides. Of course, I removed the screen first. The screen was held in by trim and spline (it's like a long, rubber shoelace if you will) and I then carefully removed that delicate, thin wooden trim molding. After I was finished sanding, we picked a stain (the deck will eventually get this stain color - so I wanted to color match the door to tie it all together,) I stained, sanded, stained, sanded (both sides of course) and then I picked a matte finish polyurethane coating which, again, was coat, sand, coat, sand. Then I put the new screen in, the new spline, newly refinished trim molding and brads which I lined up to the same holes as before. Done. Another 4 weeks, I think. Oh, last thing was I bought all new black hardware (door handle and hinges) and then hung the door.
This was all supposed to take me a weekend by the way. Turned into a 2.5-month mega project, which, is what an old co-worker would call "pulling the thread." Oh, and I also put a nice, new, wooden handle and thermostat on my old Weber gas grill. I may stain and poly that handle before it's all said and done, we'll see.
I tore the old screens off, the wood trim and got down to the frame (the patio is framed with 4x4 posts.) I've been in this house for almost 20 years, I've replaced the screens once (15+) years ago but I've never touched the posts. I noticed sloppy caulking from the previous owner was worn out so I scrapped that out and replaced all of that. Next, I painted the posts, they needed some small repairs in places (a bit of wood putty) and I needed all new trim and new privacy screen. This was kind of a hassle because there's a TON of trim around each screen. I had to put two coats of paint on the trim and it took forever. I stapled the screens in place, carefully matching the direction of each staple for some reason and then I predrilled the trim so that all the holes lined up, why, I have no idea either. Lastly, I went back and painted the nail heads. I used roofing nails, they have big shiny heads and they stood out. I used these b/c I talked it over with my painter (he's also a handy man) and he suggested I use roofing nails for a number of reasons. Oh and I want to mention something before I forget. There are nine screen panels and trim around each panel. 15+ years ago, I did all of this over a long weekend. This time, I believe it took me 4 weekends to get the nine panels done. . . I'm like old and stuff or something now.
Next was the old screen door. I put this door in 20 years ago, I've never touched it since b/c it was a BEAR to find a nice wooden door, but it was even harder to find a place that would cut it down to the exact size I needed. The screen door I put in was stained a pecan color, but it had badly sun faded, the clear coat cracked and wore off and the stain was worn down to where it looked grey in most places plus the screen had torn in a couple of places.
This is the after on the screen door, and this is the installed screen door. Ooof. This is what I did to this door. I sanded down to bare wood, both sides with an RO sander except for the corners and the wooden grills (the wooden grills are part of the door, they are not removable) and those were fun to sand on both sides. Of course, I removed the screen first. The screen was held in by trim and spline (it's like a long, rubber shoelace if you will) and I then carefully removed that delicate, thin wooden trim molding. After I was finished sanding, we picked a stain (the deck will eventually get this stain color - so I wanted to color match the door to tie it all together,) I stained, sanded, stained, sanded (both sides of course) and then I picked a matte finish polyurethane coating which, again, was coat, sand, coat, sand. Then I put the new screen in, the new spline, newly refinished trim molding and brads which I lined up to the same holes as before. Done. Another 4 weeks, I think. Oh, last thing was I bought all new black hardware (door handle and hinges) and then hung the door.
This was all supposed to take me a weekend by the way. Turned into a 2.5-month mega project, which, is what an old co-worker would call "pulling the thread." Oh, and I also put a nice, new, wooden handle and thermostat on my old Weber gas grill. I may stain and poly that handle before it's all said and done, we'll see.
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Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
ibb.co
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
ibb.co
Ron Swanson
Footballguy
Side to side motion while pressing the tab. Don't pull from the wires. Maybe use a pair of wide mouth pliers (gently) for better grip. When you re-assemble put a little dielectric grease in the connection.Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
Thanks so much for the ideas. The problem is that other plug. I can remove it, but the female housing is still there and it makes access to the main plug's tab difficult. I like your idea about the grease. Do you think spraying something like WD40 might help loosen it?Side to side motion while pressing the tab. Don't pull from the wires. Maybe use a pair of wide mouth pliers (gently) for better grip. When you re-assemble put a little dielectric grease in the connection.Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
Fat Nick
Footballguy
It's hard to tell from the grainy image from your Nokia 7650 camera phone exactly how that plug works. I really doubt it's bound up so bad that pliers and a lubricant would be needed. In most cases, if you can't get it out with pliers, then most likely there's either another retaining clip that you didn't notice, OR the one you see is a push instead of a pull or vice-versa. Those clips are all different. Some you have to lift up, some you push down...and sometimes the end to push varies.Thanks so much for the ideas. The problem is that other plug. I can remove it, but the female housing is still there and it makes access to the main plug's tab difficult. I like your idea about the grease. Do you think spraying something like WD40 might help loosen it?Side to side motion while pressing the tab. Don't pull from the wires. Maybe use a pair of wide mouth pliers (gently) for better grip. When you re-assemble put a little dielectric grease in the connection.Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
You could try a VERY small amount of lubricant. Just use a tiny bit. Too much and the whole thing will get slippery and you'll never be able to get a good grip. Direct it right into the joint, along the crack. To me, this is a last resort.
WaltonGoggins
Footballguy
Going to soon rent out my home full time (currently part time) as short term rental a home face lift was way overdue. Old floors got ruined so purchased new flooring and since it's a peer and beam also needed it leveled. Leveling with new skirt and removal of the old floor and subfloor if needed then installation of the new flooring. Purchased new floor and under layer and trim.
After paying for the materials and labor to level + new skirt + new flooring installation and sub floor decided to get a few quotes for the work that needed to be done mostly painting but the prices were way higher than I had anticipated and that's including me buying all the material so I decided to jump in and do it myself.
The following has either been done or in the process or going to be done within the next few weeks.
Deadline is early October.
Patch and float. After home flooring was leveled (peer and beam) there were massive cracks in some of the walls. Bought a large bag of USG Easy Sand 90 joint compound and mixed with water and drywall hand tool kit. I watched YT videos and knew going in I would suck and not do well but worst case I would end up hiring a tape and float guy with minimal spending. I wasn't going to get frustrated with high expectations. Looks decent and so far no one whose been over has pointed it out. Had to do multiple coats and learned try and not sand any of it to smooth out it gets everywhere. Have a high appreciation for the people who do this as a job. It truly is an art form.
Patch and sand all interior walls and trim. Fill any holes, smooth out any bumps to make every wall as smooth as possible.
Painted entire interior walls and trim. Tonester Paint - color Storms In Paris accent living room wall and the rest of the walls Farrow & Ball Dead Flat finish for the areas most noticeable areas like living room and kitchen copied the paint color and finish for the less obvious areas like small hallway and ceilings to save money. Zero gray color in home. All bedrooms and 2 bathrooms F&B All White upper half and ceiling bottom half and trim F&B different color per bedroom and bathrooms. Half bath powder room F&B Red Earth Dead Flat finish from ceiling to baseboard.
Paint sprayer was fine and did the job in living room and kitchen but way too messy especially when applying multiple coats of all white paint some paint got on floor will have to power steam off what wasn't removed initially.
Purchased Wooster wide boy bucket + rolling wheels + construction grade bags to make into liners for a DIY moving paint bucket holder to easily hold paint for 18" roller. 18" cut down the time painting. The smaller areas and trim used standard roller and different sizes of paint brushes.
Remove all gunk and grease off kitchen cabinets and vents. Liquid sandpaper, remove and mark cabinet doors and spray paint. Tonester paint brand upper cabinets Lucid bottom French Blue.
Master bathroom cabinets liquid sandpaper, remove and mark cabinet doors and spray paint. Tonester paint brand cabinets Lucid. F&B upper all white walls with color trim.
Drill all cabinet doors and install all new handles in Kitchen and MB.
Ordered tile samples for kitchen backsplash.
Purchase kitchen tiles and Install.
Sand and Repaint multiple bathroom mirrors, lighting and bathroom fixtures.
Install 3 new pendant lights over bar. Remove old ones.
Install new kitchen table overhead light. Remove old one.
Sand and paint kitchen table and chairs.
Remove all paper shades and old glue attached to window trim.
Drill and Install 15 new blinds.
Mount 2 large floor mirrors.
Mount neo light sign.
Setup and install indoor sauna.
Repaired water heater.
Power wash limestone walkway and flowerbed.
Sand, patch, caulk and power wash all window trim.
Clean all screens and windows exterior and interior.
Power wash exterior home.
Sand exterior / remove old caulking and patch re-caulk prior to painting.
Setup and install outdoor ice bath.
**Writing this mostly as a place I can check and update to make sure all the following gets done and nothing is overlooked!**
After paying for the materials and labor to level + new skirt + new flooring installation and sub floor decided to get a few quotes for the work that needed to be done mostly painting but the prices were way higher than I had anticipated and that's including me buying all the material so I decided to jump in and do it myself.
The following has either been done or in the process or going to be done within the next few weeks.
Deadline is early October.
Patch and float. After home flooring was leveled (peer and beam) there were massive cracks in some of the walls. Bought a large bag of USG Easy Sand 90 joint compound and mixed with water and drywall hand tool kit. I watched YT videos and knew going in I would suck and not do well but worst case I would end up hiring a tape and float guy with minimal spending. I wasn't going to get frustrated with high expectations. Looks decent and so far no one whose been over has pointed it out. Had to do multiple coats and learned try and not sand any of it to smooth out it gets everywhere. Have a high appreciation for the people who do this as a job. It truly is an art form.
Patch and sand all interior walls and trim. Fill any holes, smooth out any bumps to make every wall as smooth as possible.
Painted entire interior walls and trim. Tonester Paint - color Storms In Paris accent living room wall and the rest of the walls Farrow & Ball Dead Flat finish for the areas most noticeable areas like living room and kitchen copied the paint color and finish for the less obvious areas like small hallway and ceilings to save money. Zero gray color in home. All bedrooms and 2 bathrooms F&B All White upper half and ceiling bottom half and trim F&B different color per bedroom and bathrooms. Half bath powder room F&B Red Earth Dead Flat finish from ceiling to baseboard.
Paint sprayer was fine and did the job in living room and kitchen but way too messy especially when applying multiple coats of all white paint some paint got on floor will have to power steam off what wasn't removed initially.
Purchased Wooster wide boy bucket + rolling wheels + construction grade bags to make into liners for a DIY moving paint bucket holder to easily hold paint for 18" roller. 18" cut down the time painting. The smaller areas and trim used standard roller and different sizes of paint brushes.
Remove all gunk and grease off kitchen cabinets and vents. Liquid sandpaper, remove and mark cabinet doors and spray paint. Tonester paint brand upper cabinets Lucid bottom French Blue.
Master bathroom cabinets liquid sandpaper, remove and mark cabinet doors and spray paint. Tonester paint brand cabinets Lucid. F&B upper all white walls with color trim.
Drill all cabinet doors and install all new handles in Kitchen and MB.
Ordered tile samples for kitchen backsplash.
Purchase kitchen tiles and Install.
Sand and Repaint multiple bathroom mirrors, lighting and bathroom fixtures.
Install 3 new pendant lights over bar. Remove old ones.
Install new kitchen table overhead light. Remove old one.
Sand and paint kitchen table and chairs.
Remove all paper shades and old glue attached to window trim.
Drill and Install 15 new blinds.
Mount 2 large floor mirrors.
Mount neo light sign.
Setup and install indoor sauna.
Repaired water heater.
Power wash limestone walkway and flowerbed.
Sand, patch, caulk and power wash all window trim.
Clean all screens and windows exterior and interior.
Power wash exterior home.
Sand exterior / remove old caulking and patch re-caulk prior to painting.
Setup and install outdoor ice bath.
**Writing this mostly as a place I can check and update to make sure all the following gets done and nothing is overlooked!**
Just to follow up this problem was ultimately solved by a 14yo girl with much smaller fingers than I.It's hard to tell from the grainy image from your Nokia 7650 camera phone exactly how that plug works. I really doubt it's bound up so bad that pliers and a lubricant would be needed. In most cases, if you can't get it out with pliers, then most likely there's either another retaining clip that you didn't notice, OR the one you see is a push instead of a pull or vice-versa. Those clips are all different. Some you have to lift up, some you push down...and sometimes the end to push varies.Thanks so much for the ideas. The problem is that other plug. I can remove it, but the female housing is still there and it makes access to the main plug's tab difficult. I like your idea about the grease. Do you think spraying something like WD40 might help loosen it?Side to side motion while pressing the tab. Don't pull from the wires. Maybe use a pair of wide mouth pliers (gently) for better grip. When you re-assemble put a little dielectric grease in the connection.Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
You could try a VERY small amount of lubricant. Just use a tiny bit. Too much and the whole thing will get slippery and you'll never be able to get a good grip. Direct it right into the joint, along the crack. To me, this is a last resort.
My fat sausage fingers couldn't get it done.
The Z Machine
Footballguy
You can also cut it off and reterminate the wire harness...It's hard to tell from the grainy image from your Nokia 7650 camera phone exactly how that plug works. I really doubt it's bound up so bad that pliers and a lubricant would be needed. In most cases, if you can't get it out with pliers, then most likely there's either another retaining clip that you didn't notice, OR the one you see is a push instead of a pull or vice-versa. Those clips are all different. Some you have to lift up, some you push down...and sometimes the end to push varies.Thanks so much for the ideas. The problem is that other plug. I can remove it, but the female housing is still there and it makes access to the main plug's tab difficult. I like your idea about the grease. Do you think spraying something like WD40 might help loosen it?Side to side motion while pressing the tab. Don't pull from the wires. Maybe use a pair of wide mouth pliers (gently) for better grip. When you re-assemble put a little dielectric grease in the connection.Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
You could try a VERY small amount of lubricant. Just use a tiny bit. Too much and the whole thing will get slippery and you'll never be able to get a good grip. Direct it right into the joint, along the crack. To me, this is a last resort.
Don't do that.
Senor Schmutzig
Footballguy
I removed the lint screen in my dryer only to find more lint shoved down in the bottom of the lint cavity (I don't believe it's called a belly button, but it probably should be). The excess lint build-up was causing my lint screen not to be appropriately seated, subsequently allowing a bed sheet to get caught on the corner of the screen, and get all wound up and twisty in the dryer.
After removing the lint from the bottom, the lint screen could be placed as originally designed. It was probably also a fire hazard. Crisis averted. My chores are done for the day.
After removing the lint from the bottom, the lint screen could be placed as originally designed. It was probably also a fire hazard. Crisis averted. My chores are done for the day.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
Just to follow up this problem was ultimately solved by a 14yo girl with much smaller fingers than I.It's hard to tell from the grainy image from your Nokia 7650 camera phone exactly how that plug works. I really doubt it's bound up so bad that pliers and a lubricant would be needed. In most cases, if you can't get it out with pliers, then most likely there's either another retaining clip that you didn't notice, OR the one you see is a push instead of a pull or vice-versa. Those clips are all different. Some you have to lift up, some you push down...and sometimes the end to push varies.Thanks so much for the ideas. The problem is that other plug. I can remove it, but the female housing is still there and it makes access to the main plug's tab difficult. I like your idea about the grease. Do you think spraying something like WD40 might help loosen it?Side to side motion while pressing the tab. Don't pull from the wires. Maybe use a pair of wide mouth pliers (gently) for better grip. When you re-assemble put a little dielectric grease in the connection.Can someone give me a few tips? I've got a male/female electrical connector that I need to undo. (Please see pic)
I know I have to press down on the tab before pulling it out, but I just can't get it to budge. How can I get that sucker out of there? The other end is soldered to the board. I am afraid of pulling too hard.
Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted at ImgBB
Image Screenshot-2023-09-15-083625 hosted in ImgBB
You could try a VERY small amount of lubricant. Just use a tiny bit. Too much and the whole thing will get slippery and you'll never be able to get a good grip. Direct it right into the joint, along the crack. To me, this is a last resort.
My fat sausage fingers couldn't get it done.
Isn't it great when children have actual uses to us? I'm about to run a new transducer in our boat, and I'm 100% utilizing my 9 year-old to go crawl through the floor hatches to run that wire.
unckeyherb
Footballguy
The wife and I just closed on a mountain house near Lake Harmony in the Poconos. Gearing up for some projects to get it ready for Short Term Renting. General run down:
Update the kitchen cabinetry and add an island and a coffee bar. Replace sink and faucet and tile backsplash.
Update both bathrooms. Still debating on re-porcelaining the existing green or yellow 4x4 tile or going full tear down. There’s a lot of tile (all four walls have minimum 48” tile wainscot and more like 8’ at bath locations. Definitely replacing all floor tile in both bathrooms, redoing the vanities and upgrading the lighting.
Half the house has carpeting that is beyond it useful life. Unfortunately there are plywood floors, not hardwood floors underneath so I’m going to have to try and match the existing engineered wood floors and install approx 1,000 sf of flooring. Not looking forward to that.
Other odds and ends inside and out but those are the big ones. I did a similar “flip” a few years ago on our beach house and kept this thread updated. That one was way more aggressive, both in terms of scope and insane timing. This one is going to be less aggressive in terms of scope and timing and also my back is three years older so I’m going to take my time a little more.
Getting started in the next week or two. Will be basically living up there Wednesday to Saturday and squeezing in projects in between work.
Giddy up.
Update the kitchen cabinetry and add an island and a coffee bar. Replace sink and faucet and tile backsplash.
Update both bathrooms. Still debating on re-porcelaining the existing green or yellow 4x4 tile or going full tear down. There’s a lot of tile (all four walls have minimum 48” tile wainscot and more like 8’ at bath locations. Definitely replacing all floor tile in both bathrooms, redoing the vanities and upgrading the lighting.
Half the house has carpeting that is beyond it useful life. Unfortunately there are plywood floors, not hardwood floors underneath so I’m going to have to try and match the existing engineered wood floors and install approx 1,000 sf of flooring. Not looking forward to that.
Other odds and ends inside and out but those are the big ones. I did a similar “flip” a few years ago on our beach house and kept this thread updated. That one was way more aggressive, both in terms of scope and insane timing. This one is going to be less aggressive in terms of scope and timing and also my back is three years older so I’m going to take my time a little more.
Getting started in the next week or two. Will be basically living up there Wednesday to Saturday and squeezing in projects in between work.
Giddy up.
AAABatteries
Footballguy
Euphemism? Let's keep it PG, guy.
belljr
Footballguy
It's like you skipped the end;;;;;!!!!!!!
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
Gas fireplace has been acting up the last couple years (not always lighting when turning the wall switch on. Been procrastinating cleaning the thermocouple. Heard it could be the wall switch. Replaced the wall switch ($1.00) last weekend it works great now.
Judge Smails
Footballguy
Just finished the whole inside of the house. New carpet, paint all new furniture in every room including new beds. Started upgrading and it never stopped. Wife is happy and it looks really good. Now we are looking at freshening up the outside. Will be getting bids to do hardscape, etc. My goal is to have all of this stuff done, paid in cash so we have nothing major to do when I retire.
berndog
Footballguy
My daughters in college and the apartment complex refused to see why the dryer sucked. I went down and cleaned the dryer vent and took out a shop vac full of lint last weekend.
My daughter told me today her roommates bought me a bottle of bourbon to show their thanks as it no longer takes 3 cycles to dry clothes.
My daughter told me today her roommates bought me a bottle of bourbon to show their thanks as it no longer takes 3 cycles to dry clothes.
Was hoping someone could give me some repair advice. The shelf in my bathroom that holds the towels has develeoped a crack in the ...plaster? To be honest I am not sure what kind of material it is. Please see pic, the break is getting worse so I'd better fix this quick. Thank you for any advice.
break
break
belljr
Footballguy
Can you psot a "zoomed out pic" of the shelf itself and the wall
The Z Machine
Footballguy
Looks like a plastic or PVC or vinyl coating on the shelf that is cracking away. Can you re place the whole shelf?
The shelf is built into the wall.
My bathroom walls are covered with the same material as this.
Agree with belljr, a zoomed out pic would help. I'm not sure repairing is your best option. Is that wood under the plaster? If so, I'd consider scraping the plaster off the shelves and leaving as wood.
belljr
Footballguy
I was kind of right - any thoughts on priming the exposed area? i thought that would help with moisture since its in a bathroom
Peggy
Footballguy
You can get that with a high quality paint primer. That's on top of the plaster prior to final paint coat, not before plaster.
Shouldn't need anything special for a shelf. Completely different story if it's drywall that's getting shower tile or something.
Thank you so much, I will follow this advice.
-OZ-
Footballguy
We need to do some landscaping, tree removal and install a new fence. I got a few quotes including once that do everything. The best fence value was not the do-it-all company. So we’re paying $8000 for the fence, and are looking at $5,000 for tree removal (6 large pine trees) and about $5000 for two French drains.
I won’t remove the trees ourselves although it’s tempting. I have removed multiple smaller trees but those are huge. I’ll shop around.
But the French drains seem doable.
Has anyone here done their own French drains?
I won’t remove the trees ourselves although it’s tempting. I have removed multiple smaller trees but those are huge. I’ll shop around.
But the French drains seem doable.
Has anyone here done their own French drains?
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