Deck guys - composite installation (1 Viewer)

[Warrior]

We're upgrading from a small deck to a screened in porch. We've hired a company to build the porch, but first I'm going to replace the old wooden deck boards with new composite boards myself to save on costs. 

I'm moderately handy. Just wondering if anyone has experience doing this, including tips, suggestions, horror stories, etc. I know there are special jigs, blind fasteners, etc that some of these composite systems use, but I'm hoping I can handle the project myself (or with a buddy).

Looking specifically at using basic Trex or Deck Tech as budget composite options. We don't have the budget for big upgrades there. 

Any tips, stories of self-install, or opinions between those two brands of composite appreciated! 

 

[TripItUp]

We paid someone to install "Trex" and it was relatively inexpensive.  I live on the SoCal coast (SD) so it is pretty dewey every morning, nobody uses wood out here any longer.

 

[NutterButter]

I, meaning with my own 2 hands, did the same thing last fall.   Basic 12'×20' deck.   Replaced the rotting wooden boards with trex.   Ordered the trex from the pro desk at lowes. It was a pretty straightforward process.    I picture framed it using the solid core boards and filled in the interior with 20' grooved boards.  You attach the picture frame boards using composite screws (either ones that just sit flush with the board or ones you countersink that come with matching color plugs so you don't see the screw head.   Then you use starter clips to install the first row of grooved boards.   After that its just the standard hidden clips with the grooved boards.  I was lucky with my deck size in that all I needed was one 20' ft board per row so there was no joint.  You want to do the picture frame as it covers up the board ends which are unfinished.  I ordered extra in case some got damaged in shipping which happened to be the case but just make sure you can return without a restocking fee.  I know they changed their policy recently.   If you're somewhat handy its pretty straightforward and it will save you a bunch of money.   

 

[belljr]

Something I ran into. I used the same existing joists because my frame was still solid.  Well trex aren't quite the same size as the 2x6 I had on there. So my trim was off a little. My deck ended about an inch lower. Not a huge deal but the original owners went under my small bump out. So I had to just block that area so stuff wouldn't go under.  I also had to clean the house pretty good

 

[nysfl2]

I did a large deck in composite at my house. Two important learnings. 

1. The composite are a little softer than wood, so you may need to put some extra support between joists. I cut some of the wood that I had just pulled up, and turned them into some extra supports as I was installing.

2. Pay attention to the recommended spacing between boards. I was a little lax on this in sections, and had to fix some boards that would expand and buckle up during the summer. It also created some areas that didn't drain well. Not that big of a deal because we just attached with deck screws, so could just unscrew and pull a board up to plane the sides.

 

[belljr]

I did a large deck in composite at my house. Two important learnings. 

1. The composite are a little softer than wood, so you may need to put some extra support between joists. I cut some of the wood that I had just pulled up, and turned them into some extra supports as I was installing.

2. Pay attention to the recommended spacing between boards. I was a little lax on this in sections, and had to fix some boards that would expand and buckle up during the summer. It also created some areas that didn't drain well. Not that big of a deal because we just attached with deck screws, so could just unscrew and pull a board up to plane the sides.

The hidden fasteners take care of proper spacing.   

To the OP fwiw I have trex and love it. * It does get a touch hot in the summer so I have to be sure to have flip flops around 

 

[Warrior]

I, meaning with my own 2 hands, did the same thing last fall.   Basic 12'×20' deck.   Replaced the rotting wooden boards with trex.   Ordered the trex from the pro desk at lowes. It was a pretty straightforward process.    I picture framed it using the solid core boards and filled in the interior with 20' grooved boards.  You attach the picture frame boards using composite screws (either ones that just sit flush with the board or ones you countersink that come with matching color plugs so you don't see the screw head.   Then you use starter clips to install the first row of grooved boards.   After that its just the standard hidden clips with the grooved boards.  I was lucky with my deck size in that all I needed was one 20' ft board per row so there was no joint.  You want to do the picture frame as it covers up the board ends which are unfinished.  I ordered extra in case some got damaged in shipping which happened to be the case but just make sure you can return without a restocking fee.  I know they changed their policy recently.   If you're somewhat handy its pretty straightforward and it will save you a bunch of money.   

Great info, thank you! When you picture framed, parallel to the joists, how did you make the grooved boards reach the first and last joists that form the border? In other words, wouldn't the top and bottom of the frame hog the top and bottom joists, not allowing the middle boards to reach those supports? 

Note: I think those border joists at the top and bottom have a specific name, so apologies if I'm using the wrong terminology! 

 

[Drunken Cowboy]

I did a trek deck last year. The decking is pretty easy to work with. I think the low cost stuff has too much flex though. The fencing is where they get you. 

 

[jobarules]

Whoever installed the one in my backyard (it was here when I bought house) left too much space in between joists and a few boards are bowing now.

 

[belljr]

Great info, thank you! When you picture framed, parallel to the joists, how did you make the grooved boards reach the first and last joists that form the border? In other words, wouldn't the top and bottom of the frame hog the top and bottom joists, not allowing the middle boards to reach those supports? 

Note: I think those border joists at the top and bottom have a specific name, so apologies if I'm using the wrong terminology! 

You just need to sister a joist and install some cross braces or blocking 

Something like this 

https://www.timbertech.com/resources/deck-building/how-to-picture-frame-a-deck/

 

[NutterButter]

Great info, thank you! When you picture framed, parallel to the joists, how did you make the grooved boards reach the first and last joists that form the border? In other words, wouldn't the top and bottom of the frame hog the top and bottom joists, not allowing the middle boards to reach those supports? 

Note: I think those border joists at the top and bottom have a specific name, so apologies if I'm using the wrong terminology! 

You need to add some additional framing to those outside joists to not only support the interior boards but to properly support those perimeter boards.   I just sandwiched a 2x4 horizontally between the exterior joist and an additional joist on the inside of that.  So that gives you a 6.5" surface to work with.   

 

[Warrior]

Whoever installed the one in my backyard (it was here when I bought house) left too much space in between joists and a few boards are bowing now.

How much space? More than 16"?

 

[jobarules]

How much space? More than 16"?

Correct 

 

[glvsav37]

every deck manufacturer recommends different fasteners but we used these and they were awesome. 

my kids' job was to set them and then we had 4 adults with screw guns zip them down...I've never put a board down any faster. 

Decks are pretty simple overall, where people get caught up is any odd shapes or lots of corners or cuts. 

Be sure to make sure you have/add adequate support lumber if you are doing things like posts or rails after the decking is done. Once its down, its hard to go back in and add structural lumber. So be sure to plan for those too. 

 

[belljr]

The best part for us besides having to restain all the time was the ability to use different colors easily to "enhance" the look.

https://imgur.com/a/RzxdQrL

 

[Fat Nick]

Rebuilt my old 10'x20' deck into a 20'x25' deck 7 years ago with Trex.  Really good info above - Two areas where I'd say if I had to go back and do it again I'd do something differently:

1) As noted, the boards are soft.  Because of that, you can't rely on the board to properly level out the joists if they're slightly off, and shimming is a pain.  I should have spent some time with a planer identifying high spots and planing them down so everything is level.  Like SPOT ON level.  You may have seen videos where a guy shoves a 6' level and it slides across all the joists - like that kind of level.  I had a few spots that were 1/8" low or something due to board imperfections.  When it rains, you can see the water puddle in these low spots.  Nobody would EVER notice visually, but the water tells the story and it bugs me.

2) If you do fascia board around the outside, be sure to somehow support it almost the full height of the fascia.  I used 2x8's for my joists and rim joist, but then used 1x12 fascia board.  What happened is where the corners miter together, the outer board is curving outward.  If I had to do it over again, I'd affix 2x12 as my outer rim joist so the fascia board was fully backed by wood and could be affixed closer to the corners so it wouldn't peel back.

All-in-all my deck is holding up very well.  I have one board that peeled a little of the color pattern off, but it's barely noticeable.  Otherwise it's holding up very well.  

 

[belljr]

Rebuilt my old 10'x20' deck into a 20'x25' deck 7 years ago with Trex.  Really good info above - Two areas where I'd say if I had to go back and do it again I'd do something differently:

1) As noted, the boards are soft.  Because of that, you can't rely on the board to properly level out the joists if they're slightly off, and shimming is a pain.  I should have spent some time with a planer identifying high spots and planing them down so everything is level.  Like SPOT ON level.  You may have seen videos where a guy shoves a 6' level and it slides across all the joists - like that kind of level.  I had a few spots that were 1/8" low or something due to board imperfections.  When it rains, you can see the water puddle in these low spots.  Nobody would EVER notice visually, but the water tells the story and it bugs me.

2) If you do fascia board around the outside, be sure to somehow support it almost the full height of the fascia.  I used 2x8's for my joists and rim joist, but then used 1x12 fascia board.  What happened is where the corners miter together, the outer board is curving outward.  If I had to do it over again, I'd affix 2x12 as my outer rim joist so the fascia board was fully backed by wood and could be affixed closer to the corners so it wouldn't peel back.

All-in-all my deck is holding up very well.  I have one board that peeled a little of the color pattern off, but it's barely noticeable.  Otherwise it's holding up very well.  

Yeah in hindsight i wish i spent more money and time and did it 100% right.  TO cut some corners i just basically ripped off the old rails and flooring and kept the same base structure.   I ended up with a couple spots were the front beam was a tad off so my last piece of flooring is off. Causes a slight gap near the stairs.  I also didnt trim it properly, I did the old fascade covers the board edge trick which isnt correct but thats how the old was measured out.  I basically just rebuilt the exact deck but with the trex finishing. Still looks great and is hilding up but I have a couple small curves and corners and I reused my old vinyl lattice.  It looks good and is structurally fine but there are some finisihing that is done incorrectly and could be better

 

[Warrior]

@belljrand others,

How important would you say that blocking is? My joists are 16" apart and there aren't any signs of them twisting or warping, etc. But there is no blocking between the joists other than the last 2. Would you consider it a pretty crucial step or just an extra precaution? If necessary, I guess i could add a row later (halfway across the 10' joists down the middle) because the current deck is on the second story, so i can get on a ladder from underneath and add them from below. 

 

[Phil Elliott]

We installed Fiberon about 9 years ago (we moved 3 years ago) and liked it. But it was in the sun and got very hot (Austin,TX), but I think you mentioned it is a covered deck. If you follow the "transition board" pattern in the link you can reduce long boards:  Deck patterns to save you money You can tell the boards are slightly more flexible than wood, so don't push the recommended joist spacing. 

 

[belljr]

They only recommend blocking over 8'.  If you are 10ft I wouldn't be overly concerned.  Tbh I'm not sure I have blocking on mine but I'm also only a couple feet off the ground.  I'd have to get under my deck to be 100% sure.

I do have blocking around all my posts so that helps. Sorry I don't have a better answer. It isn't needed specifically for the Trex if that makes sense 

If you do install blocking. run a chalk line. Then alternate block on each side of the line.

 

[BassNBrew]

If your transporting 20 foot boards in your truck and running them thru the back window, be gentle when you slide them in.  Someone I know may or may not have slide one into the windshield making a nice mosaic pattern in the glass.

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Install the decking diagonally. It’s stronger and looks cool.

Start the first board in the middle and work outward. 

 

[BassNBrew]

Install the decking diagonally. It’s stronger and looks cool.

Start the first board in the middle and work outward. 

So you are the guy who made our demo project take twice as long as it should have.

While you are correct, nothing says fun like prying up screwed in (buried screws) diagonal boards.

 

[belljr]

I hated our diagnol deck

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

So you are the guy who made our demo project take twice as long as it should have.

While you are correct, nothing says fun like prying up screwed in (buried screws) diagonal boards.

I’m not sure how the direction of the boards matters in that circumstance. 
 

I hated our diagnol deck

Lol, what’s to hate? All the boards going one direction is boring and it’s sometimes harder to use only full length boards (no butt/angled joints). 

 

[BassNBrew]

I’m not sure how the direction of the boards matters in that circumstance. 
 

Getting the crow bar started is much easier on a 90 vs. 45.

Picking nits, but easier to move joist to joist side stepping vs having to move in two directions and the screws are further apart on the diagonals so prying at point A has less impact at point B.

Lastly, got to have something to ##### about when doing projects.

 

[NutterButter]

If your transporting 20 foot boards in your truck and running them thru the back window, be gentle when you slide them in.  Someone I know may or may not have slide one into the windshield making a nice mosaic pattern in the glass.

Those 20 ft boards are enormous.   I'm glad I ordered extras, but it was still a bit of a pita transporting them back to lowes on the top of an suv and even just getting them into the store.  

 

[BassNBrew]

Those 20 ft boards are enormous.   I'm glad I ordered extras, but it was still a bit of a pita transporting them back to lowes on the top of an suv and even just getting them into the store.  

Freaking heavy to.  

 

[belljr]

I’m not sure how the direction of the boards matters in that circumstance. 
 

Lol, what’s to hate? All the boards going one direction is boring and it’s sometimes harder to use only full length boards (no butt/angled joints). 

I have nothing but full length boards on my current deck. Built it that way on purpose. I didn't install our diagnol deck but when replaced a few boards you have to angle cut the ends, sweeping and cleaning were more of a pain cause you had to sweep on the angle.  I live in a wooded area so get lots of tree debris.   

 

[Warrior]

Those 20 ft boards are enormous.   I'm glad I ordered extras, but it was still a bit of a pita transporting them back to lowes on the top of an suv and even just getting them into the store.  

Yesterday, the lowes guy at the pro desk told me the 20ft'ers couldn't be returned because they are custom ordered. Were you able to return your extras? 

 

[NutterButter]

Yesterday, the lowes guy at the pro desk told me the 20ft'ers couldn't be returned because they are custom ordered. Were you able to return your extras? 

Ugh.  Yeah.  I think I got in right before they tightened up their return policy.   I'd ask then how it works if some get damaged during shipping b/c a couple of mine did.   Its gonna be a pita if that happens and you have to wait for more to be shipped.  Might not be as bad now, but when I did it last fall, delivery took a month.  

 

[NutterButter]

Btw, not sure if you doing a fascia or the color, but if you are and you're fine with white, then you can buy 4x8x.75" sheets of pvc, rip them to 12" pieces and use that.  Its a lot cheaper than buying the trex fascia.   And it has a nice texture to it. It can be painted as well, but I wouldn't want to have to deal with that.  Kind of defeats part of the purpose of going with the composite.